I often think about how in pet food aisles, there are countless meal toppers lining the aisles. I assume they are sold as little flavor enhancers so your pet can gobble down their monotonous meals. It feels ridiculous, yet I get it. I kinda need one too, especially on hurried nights of roasted veg or very tired rice bowls. I often look around desperately for a nut or toasted sesame seed to add a little savory crunch to the mundane. Having this dukkah on hand, my frenzied search is put to end and I am delighted to find my very own “meal topper.”
There are many variations of this Egyptian spice/nut/seed mix but I am particularly fond of this blend because it feels like a crossover dukkah. The lime leaf is a staple in Thai cooking. And it gives this dukkah its’ floral notes and a complexity that enables it to pair not only with middle eastern fare but to a wide range of weeknight meals. Think sprinkled over hearty beans, garnishing soups or atop fresh cheeses, like baked feta or ricotta.
Makrut lime leaves are little tricky to find. They are sometimes sold fresh or frozen at an Asian grocery store. But full transperancy, I get mine from a tree I was gifted. I’m obsessed. And this obsession has led me here, to my first subtack newsletter of the year recommending that you have this tree as a household pet/plant, just to inspire your home cooking. I’m sorry, that’s what love does. And I know…I know - I gave you a recipe and told you to buy a tree…I understand. This is deeply unrealistically. (Get ready…this is a character trait you may or may not find endearing.) I will tell you in my defense, this lime tree is one of my deepest loves and I stare at her for hours, caress her leaves, fret over how much water I give her and brought her inside many of a times due to a thunderstorm. irrational! yes! devoted! yes! But if you really can’t swing a tree or a trip to the grocer, there are many places online that will ship fresh ones direct.
other note, this recipe use quarter sheet trays. I love a quarter sheet tray. (I am giving you a link here.) They are useful for toasting, baking one or two cookies because I deserve treats and you do to, or general mise (mise en place): like prepped veg, seasoning a steak, organizing your pantry.
THE RECIPE:
2/3 cup whole almonds (skin on)
3 Tab coriander
1 Tab cumin
1/3 cup sesame seeds
2 Tab sumac
1 tsp fleur de sel
6 makrut lime leaves - thinly thinly sliced
preheat the oven to 350F. Spread the almonds on a 1/4 sheet tray for toasting. Spread the coriander and cumin on a separate 1/4 sheet tray and on another 1/4 sheet tray, spread your sesame seeds. Toast the almonds for about 10 min until golden. Toast the coriander and cumin until fragrant 5 minutes. Toast the sesame seeds 30 minutes ( I like them really golden…the flavor really comes out… and to be honest I am pretty sure very few of us are toasting our sesame seeds long enough. see below)
Crush the coriander and cumin in a mortar and pestle, or a spice grinder (aka your old coffee grinder.) I like a rough grind, like just crushed seeds. It helps give it texture.
Roughly but finely chop the toasted almonds.
This is the finicky part: Take your lime leaves and peel each side of the lime leaf, stripping away the midrib/the petiole that bisects the leaf. Take each half leaf and thinly thinly slice - like an ultra thin julienne. If you don’t slice it thin, you can’t really eat it, it’s too fibrous. You could also try pounding in a mortar and pestle and adding the sea salt to help break it down. I think you could also use a sharp scissor and make little cuts (as small as you can.) When all else fails, just take your knife and mince the hell out of it.
Combine everything and put in a seal tight jar. leave on the counter and use with abandon. It can be store on the counter for months.
ITEMS I PUT THIS ON: (a non comprehensive list)
tahini peanut sauce, fried tofu and brussels spouts
radicchio, pomegranate, feta salad
napa wedge with tahini vinaigrette
roast carrots, yogurt (mostly on top of the yogurt) and couscous
ricotta and tomato salad
roasted squash soup (as pictured above)
ARE YOU ROASTING YOUR SESAME SEEDS LONG ENOUGH?
A photo series to help you color match your seeds for optimal enjoyment!
I think sesame seeds take a shockingly long time to get to peak toastiness. I know the last picture looks close to perhaps burnt, it’s not. It’s when true deliciousness emerges.
Lime tree is now on my wishlist... but I made this yesterday using frozen makrut leaves and enjoyed it today sprinkled on grilled farm bread w/ ricotta and charred Brussel sprouts...absolutely delicious!
ahhh I need a lime tree now! Obsessed with your substack already 👏